Based on materials from the Internet. Review of the book by B.G.Sarychev published in 1959
TECHNOLOGY AND BIOCHEMISTRY OF RYE BREAD (1959) B. G. SARYCHEV
Rye was popularly called “breadbasket”, “rye” (to live), since it was the main source of food for people.
In rye, the grain shell is 80% thicker than the wheat grain shell, that is, rye wallpaper flour contains more bran and is darker.
Rye flour in Russia, USA and Europe
Rye milling in Russia
1) wallpaper grinding with a yield of 95% without selection of bran. Dark flour.
2) peeled grinding with a yield of 85% with some selection of bran. Gray flour. More frequent sieves are used than with wallpaper grinding, that is, the flour is less dark and finer.
3) Seeded flour with a yield of 63%. This white rye flour is also called baked flour. Two-grade flour with 15% seeded and 65% peeled.
In Europe, flour is produced with a yield of 75-83% (light gray) and in the form of meal with a yield of 99% (the coarsest black rye flour)
Types of rye flour in the USA
1. White rye from pure grain endosperm, such as Russian premium wheat flour.
2. Medium rye flour of light gray color, which is used to prepare gray and dark types of bread (Czech, Polish, Russian). Type of Russian flour 1 s, that is, grinding is carried out with a selection of bran.
3. Dark rye flour - the remainder after the selection of endosperm for white rye, corresponds to the first clear flour. It is used for making dark tough bread.
4. Rye flour of simple grinding without sifting bran is used for the production of pumpernickel bread.
Most varieties of the so-called. Rye bread in the US is baked from a mixture of 20-35% rye flour and wheat flour. This is due to the fact that in the USA they prefer fluffy bread, and when rye flour is added to wheat in an amount of up to 35%, the amount of gluten in the flour increases. [Gluten is a tough network of flour proteins that forms when flour is moistened with water. Only a fraction of the proteins in flour are combined into gluten. LV] With a further increase in the rye flour in the mixture, the amount of gluten in the dough decreases sharply and at 60-70% of the rye flour in the dough the gluten becomes so soft and inelastic that it can hardly be washed out of the dough (that is, it no longer forms a supporting frame in bread).
When soaked, rye flour does not form a network of swollen proteins (gluten). Rye proteins simply "dissolve" in water, forming a viscous liquid. That is why rye dough is so viscous and easily takes any shape. When cutting, it practically does not strain and its relaxation period is much shorter than that of wheat. Therefore, rye dough does not need an intermediate proofing.
Interestingly, rye and wheat flours of the same yield require almost the same amount of water when kneading the dough.
Another distinguishing feature of Russian and American rye bread is the salt content in the dough. In the USA, 2.5-3% salt is added to rye dough to stabilize fermentation and create aroma. In Russia, rye table bread made from wallpaper flour (“black bread”) contains only 1.5% salt. Without salt, rye dough would be sticky and moist to the touch; the upper crust of bread is concave, the crumb is sticky, inelastic. Normal crumb and crust can be obtained with 1% salt in rye dough.
Holding flour after grinding
Wheat flour after grinding, especially after grinding freshly harvested grain, needs to be cured in order to get good quality bread from it. Bread made from freshly ground wheat flour would be unsatisfactory - sticky, blurry, small in volume.
On the other hand, rye flour does not require curing, since its quality does not improve during storage of rye flour. Moreover, according to a number of indicators, bread made from freshly ground rye flour will be better - more porous, voluminous, better in taste and aroma.
Rye flour and rye products
Bread is baked from rye flour and rye, rye and rye-wheat rusks, red rye malt are prepared, and dry sourdoughs are obtained.
Rye bread rusks cannot be dried at temperatures above 120C, because then they are too fried and bitter. To preserve vitamin B1 in rye bread, crackers are dried at a temperature of 80-100C for several hours.
Red rye malt is a special pinkish-brown flour made from sprouted grains with a sweet honey aroma and taste. First, rye grains are germinated for 3-6 days, then it is tormented (fermented) for 4-6 days in heaps, called "cargo". During languishing, the temperature inside the cargo reaches 50-50C. Next, the malt goes to drying for 22 hours.
Red rye malt used in baking custard rye bread (Borodino, Moscow) and in baking some varieties of wheat bread (tea, Karelian)
Preparation of dry starter culturethat can withstand storage up to 6 months. B.G.Sarychev's method. Take a ripe, good quality thick rye sourdough (head) and rub it firmly with wallpaper rye flour (take 2 parts of wallpaper flour for 1 part of the leaven). The harder (steeper) the leaven is rubbed, the better lactic acid bacteria are preserved in it. The grated starter culture is crushed, sprinkled on a sheet of plywood or on paper and dried to a moisture content of 9-10% at 30-35C (that is, approximately 24 hours) and stored in a sealed package.
It is important not to overdry the starter culture, because at a moisture content of less than 8%, microorganisms die.
To revive (restore, refresh) the leaven, moisten it with warm water (1: 1 by weight), add pressed yeast (0.4% by weight of dry starter culture) and leave to ferment for 2 hours. After that the leaven is ready for use in baking and it will have ideal acidity.
As natural improvers for rye bread, they use
1) Red rye malt (non-diastatic malt, malt syrup), which gives the bread a specific taste, aroma and darker crumb color. Red malt is added in large quantities to such types of bread as custard simple (3%), Borodino (5%), Moscow (5%) and amateur (9%).
2) Lactic acid in an amount of 0.3% or more. Usually, lactic acid is formed by itself during the fermentation of the sourdough dough, but occasionally it is added ready-made. Thanks to the acid, the crumb of the bread becomes drier, and the dough made from baked flour liquefies less.
3) Treacle and spices. Molasses in the amount of 1-14% is added to special varieties of rye bread when kneading the dough. It improves the taste and appearance of the dough. Spices - coriander, cumin, anise - are usually consumed in an amount of less than 0.5% by weight of the flour. These seeds are sprinkled on a crust of bread, which does not affect its technology, but only marks the type of bread. If spices are added more than 0.5%, then they are brewed with malt and a portion of the flour. The essential oils of the added seeds activate the yeast and affect the activity of the enzymes in the flour.
Fermentation of rye dough
Rye dough is very rarely loosened with pressed yeast (example: sea bread). Basically, dough is made from rye flour of any kind and type with sourdough.
Sourdough refers to any fermenting bread dough containing lactic acid bacteria and yeast, regardless of whether it is made from rye or wheat flour and whether it has a consistency. Therefore, the sourdough will be the usual sour dough and head (thick dough) and kvass (slightly thinner dough) and dough (liquid dough).
Usually, the leaven is allowed to ferment for about 4 hours (thick leaven, head, ferments from 2.5 hours to 5 hours), and rye bread on thick leaven - 1.5-2 hours. When making a sponge rye dough, add 10-20% of the previous ready-made dough to the liquid dough, let the dough ferment for 3 hours 20 minutes -4 hours 10 minutes. The dough dough is then fermented for 40-90 minutes. Fermentation is carried out at 28-30C.
Spontaneous fermentation (sourdough formation)
Knead the flour and water dough and leave for 12 hours at 25C.
Dilute by adding flour and water to increase the amount of dough by 1.5 times. Leave for 10 hours at 26C.
...
Leave for 6 hours at 30C
After the first two or three refreshments, the smell will be unpleasant, unusual for a normal test. After three days, a sourdough is obtained on which you can make normal bread. However, this leaven is still not acidic enough. After another 1-3 days, the starter culture acquires normal acidity. A total of 6-10 refreshments are required.
In thick starter cultures, acid accumulation is more intense. In thick warm starter cultures, more lactic acid is formed (it is non-acidic in taste with a more pleasant aroma), and in cold liquid starter cultures more acetic acid is formed, they are more acidic in taste with a sharper aroma.
Acidity of bread and dough
If the bread is made from wheat flour, then the wheat dough is sour than the bread that is made from it. From rye flour, everything is completely different. Rye bread dough is as sour as bread made from it, and when stored / stale rye bread, it becomes sour over time (its pH decreases).
More sour bread does not need to add more leaven. You can simply leave the dough to ferment for longer. When 5 to 25% of the starter is added to the dough, its acidity increases by 1.5-2.2 degrees every hour and after six hours of fermentation reaches a maximum value of 11-15 degrees.
This is important for the quality of rye rusks. The fact is that pure rye rusks with an acidity of up to 21 degrees and rye-wheat with an acidity of up to 20 degrees have the best taste. At the same time, bread for crackers is better prepared sour and do not stand for 24 hours before slicing, but cut fresh, immediately after baking, into slices 20-25mm thick. Then black crackers are tastier.
Rye bread baking
Usually, rye bread is baked with a larger weight than wheat bread. Large breads take longer to bake with a significant decrease in oven temperature towards the end of baking.
After baking, the crumb temperature continues to increase for 5-10 minutes, increasing by up to 14C (heat from the hotter crust enters the inside of the bread).
Recommended duration and temperature for baking rye bread:
Rye bread from wallpaper flour weighing 1.5-3 kg is baked for 55-80 minutes
Brewed molded from wallpaper flour weighing 1.5 kg is baked 55-60 min at 280-300C
Brewed hearth bread weighing 2 kg is baked for 50-55 minutes at 240-250C
Amateur shaped from wallpaper flour weighing 2 kg is baked for 12-15 hours at 100 -110C. This produces bread with a particularly pleasant, sweet taste and aroma. Long-term baking of bread from wallpaper flour at a lower temperature can be carried out for any type of bread, this increases its quality. The crumb becomes more elastic and delicate, pleasant dark brown color. The taste and aroma of the bread are improved.
Rye bread from peeled flour weighing 1.5 kg is baked for 50-70 minutes at 250-260C
Borodinsky mold weighing 1.5 kg bake 65-70 min at 280-300C
Borodinsky hearth weighing 0.5 kg is baked for 30-35 min at 240-250C
Moscow piece molded weighing 0.5 kg is baked 50-55 min at 250-280C
Rye-wheat bread weighing 1.5 kg is baked for 50-60 minutes at 185-260C.
When baking rye bread, the baking chamber is not moistened.
The crust of rye bread made from wallpaper flour has a dark color - dark brown and grayish brown. When baked, the crumb darkens from light gray to dark brown. This is due to special substances in rye bran.
In rye bread made from seeded (baked) flour, the top and side crust are often colored in a brown-raspberry color of varying intensity. The crumb does not darken during baking.
Great importance is attached to the gloss of the upper crust.
Ready bread
The most important varieties of Russian rye bread (1959) are:
- from wallpaper rye flour
Rye simple molded
Rye simple hearth
Custard mold
Moscow piece in special packaging
Custard amateur in the form of slices wrapped in cellophane
- from peeled flour
Molded
Hearth
- from seeded flour
Spit
Vitebsk
- from a mixture of rye and wheat flour; this bread is more porous, less moist and sour
Ukrainian
Minsk
Riga
Rye bread hardens more slowly than wheat bread and is more flavorful. This is due not so much to flour as to the differing methods of making rye and wheat dough.
In addition, the staleness of rye bread is further slowed down by the following methods:
- the use of tea leaves with molasses (15% of all flour and 5% of maltose molasses). Such infusions slow down the staleness of bread for five days, while the sweet and sour taste and aroma of rye bread remain for 10 days.
- using infusions without molasses (20% of all flour). Such infusions slow down staling by 4 days, the taste and aroma are retained for 6 days.
- additives of vegetable oil in the dough (3-4% of sunflower oil) delay staling for two days.
Rye bread has two defects - temper and sticky crumb. Hardening is a compacted, inelastic crumb strip at the bottom or side crust. Tempering occurs if the dough is too wet, the fermentation time is disturbed, the oven is not heated enough, if the baking time is insufficient, bumps crushing the bread when it is removed from the oven, as well as when the bread is cooled on a cold surface.
