Ripe dough, liquid dough (pulish), Italian dough (biga)

[Ripe dough, liquid dough (pulish), Italian dough (biga)]

Ripe dough, liquid dough (pulish), Italian dough (biga)

From the book by D. Hamelman "BREAD"
Jeffrey Hamelman has been a professional baker for almost thirty years.
For half that time, he owned a bakery in Vermont. He has worked as a bakery instructor in several culinary and bakery schools, and taught in France, Germany, Canada, Ireland, Brazil and Japan. In 1996, he was selected as the captain of the United States Bakery Team, which consisted of three people and represented the United States in Paris at the World Cup du rse de la Boulangerie in Bakery. In 1998, he became the 76th Certified Master Baker in the United States. J. Hamelman is the Director of the Bakery and Training Center for the King Arthur Flour Company in Norwich. Vermont. In this position, he teaches monthly in classroom baking courses for one week and makes workouts for three weeks at KingArthur Bakery.
In this chapter, we will look at an assortment of breads made using pre-fermented yeast semi-finished products. The benefits of using these convenience foods are undeniable in terms of flavor, dough strength, quality retention, and shortened production time (for a full explanation of the benefits of pre-fermented convenience foods, see Chapter 1, The Bread Making Process From Kneading To Baking).

On the forum, see the topic D. Hamelman. Bakery technology from kneading to baking

[Pre-fermented yeast semi-finished products]

Pre-fermented yeast semi-finished products
Before discussing the specifics of bread production, it is necessary to clarify the main types of pre-fermented yeast semi-finished products and explain their main characteristics.

Ripe dough (pate fermentee)
Ripe dough (pate fermentee or pate fermente) is just a piece of wheat flour dough that has been preserved from the previous kneading and added to the next batch. Although this is a French name, bakers use this semi-finished product everywhere. And if your customers ask why your baguettes taste so good, they'll probably like it better if you say it's the result of using pate fermentee than the raw truth that you used leftovers from yesterday's dough - it doesn't sound right. beautifully! Aside from improving taste, it is clear that using some of the previous batch residues is economically preferable to discarding them. Of the main pre-fermented yeast semi-finished products, this is the only one that contains salt.
Like other yeast pre-fermented convenience foods, ripe doughs have a limited lifespan, unlike a lactic acid ferment that can be maintained for many years. The fermented dough can be stored in the refrigerator for no more than 48 hours, after which its fermentation ability is noticeably impaired. If there is enough space in the freezer, it can be frozen, although within a week the activity of the yeast will decrease, and this semi-finished product will perform its function less and less. Freezing can be a good option for a home baker who bakes about once a week. The effort required to prepare a pate fermentee from the evening before a scheduled bake is very small, however it pays off in getting great bread when used.

Liquid dough (poolish)
Poolish liquid dough (pulish) is a mixture of equal amounts of flour and water, with the addition of a very small amount of yeast (from 0.08 to 1%, depending on the duration of maturation of this dough before the final dough kneading and the temperature in the room where ripening takes place) ... Since the ratio of flour to water is 1: 1, the pulish dough is 100% hydrated and looks more like pancake dough than bread dough. Salt is not added to this type of dough. In a mixture such as dough pulish, the activity of proteases (enzymes that cause protein breakdown) is quite high. These enzymes help to increase the elasticity of the bread dough, which not only makes forming easier (although it may be more difficult in the early stages of the development of handcraft), but also leads to an increase in the volume of bread. The aroma of a bowl of ripe dough pulish is intoxicating - sweetish-nutty with subtle sour notes. The texture of the dough is elastic and silky and gives a real pleasure to the baker's hands. As the name suggests, this brew is of Polish origin. It was originally used in confectionery, but eventually came to be used for baking bread, and is now used by bakers all over the world.

Italian dough (biga)
The term biga (biga) is a generic Italian term for different types of sponge. In consistency, it can be strong (from 50 to 60% hydration) or practically the same as pulish (with 100% hydration), with a small amount of yeast. In any case, there is no salt in the biga dough - only flour, water and a little yeast. The dosage of yeast is determined by the ambient temperature and the maturation time of the dough. As with pulisch dough, the dosage of yeast in Italian dough is usually between 0.08 and 1%.

[Cooking pre-discarded convenience foods]

Cooking pre-discarded convenience foods
Fermentation of the dough, as a rule, is 6-16 hours {pate fermentee or tipping is usually an exception to this rule, since this is just a dough taken from a previous batch, but it can also be kneaded specifically for this baking). Flour, water and yeast are mixed for 3 minutes at first speed. At the moment, the development of gluten is not the goal, so processing at the first speed is sufficient. When you are sure all ingredients are evenly mixed, turn off the mixer and cover the dough with plastic wrap to prevent crusting on the surface. The dough ripens at room temperature.

It is very important to know the signs of readiness: in ripe pulish dough, its surface will be covered with small bubbles. In fact, you should see bubbles breaking through the surface, indicating that the yeast is active. If there are signs that the liquid dough has increased in volume, and then fell off (this can be seen in the traces of the dough stuck to the walls of the bowl), then for the dough pulish this is the best moment. The maturation of strong brews biga and pate fermentee is considered complete when their surface becomes convex and only begins to fall off in the center. The goal is to have a fully matured fermented food by the time you are ready to use it, and therefore the amount of yeast introduced will increase or decrease depending on the room temperature. The amount of yeast required to ripen the pulish dough in 16 hours at 26 ° C may be 0.08% of the flour weight, but at 18 ° C, the same dough may require 0.25% yeast. Another factor that determines the yeast dosage is the length of the maturation phase - longer maturation requires less yeast. Below is the overall ratio of maturation time and yeast dosage. This ratio has been established for room temperatures ranging from 21 to 24 ° C; the percentage of yeast is calculated to the mass of flour that is used in a semi-finished product, and not flour in the general recipe, and the dosage is indicated only for compressed yeast.

Maturing time, hours - Yeast dosage,%
Up to 8 - from 0.7 to 1.0
Up to 12 - from 0.3 to 0.6
Up to 16 - from 0.1 to 0.25

When selecting a portion of a fully kneaded dough for use as ripe dough in the next batch, this portion contains the full dosage of yeast - the same as the rest of the dough from which this semi-finished product was taken. Therefore, this type of fermented semi-finished products is distinguished into a separate category. If ripe dough is not going to be used within about 6 hours, it should be refrigerated. As a result of prolonged exposure at room temperature, the dough will completely lose its strength, since it contains a large amount of yeast. Let the kneaded dough stand at room temperature for about an hour for fermentation to begin, then wrinkle to squeeze out gas bubbles and refrigerate the resulting semi-finished product. It should be chilled as quickly as possible, and then kneaded once or twice within a few hours of ripening. When using a semi-finished product in a new batch, its temperature should be taken into account when calculating the required water temperature for the final dough.

The amount of fresh yeast used in pre-fermented convenience foods is set at 0.2% for all recipes in this chapter. This often corresponds to a mass of about 3 g. In addition, for consistency, the yeast amount for pre-fermented convenience foods is expressed in kilograms, even if this means a weight such as 0.007 kg as in a pulish baguette recipe. To explain the conversion of kilograms to grams, it is useful to do it using the example of the recipe for a baguette on a pulish. To convert kilograms to grams, multiply the number of kilograms by 1000 (if 0.007 kg of yeast is needed for a semi-finished product in a baguette recipe on a pulish, then this turns into 0.007 • 1000 = 7 g). The biggest difficulties arise with the "1 kg" column: at home, baked goods are usually not made in quantities that justify the use of fresh pressed yeast, therefore instant dry yeast is also indicated in the recipes. In the recipe for a baguette on a pulish in the column "per 1 kg", the amount of instant yeast required for dough is 0.2 g. It is clear that such a mass cannot be accurately weighed at home. Solution: Use a pinch of instant yeast for the semi-finished product, pay special attention to temperature and time, and carefully observe the signs of dough readiness. For example, if a semi-finished product ripens in 10 hours, and you counted on 16 hours, use a smaller pinch of yeast next time or put the dough in a cooler place for fermentation. Conversely, if you want a semi-finished product to ripen in 12 hours, but during this time it does not budge, next time your pinch should be a little larger or the place for ripening is warmer.

[Grain soaking]

Grain soaking
Some of the recipes in this chapter use swollen grain. Soaking makes tough beans taste better, reduces their tendency to interrupt the development of the gluten carcass during kneading, and also reduces their tendency to draw moisture out of the dough after kneading. In order to soak the grain in a cold way, you just need to pour water over it, mix everything together and cover the container with a film to prevent evaporation. Hot soaking is carried out using particularly hard grains that do not soften well in cold water (for example, wheat grains or millet). In this case, bring the water to a boil and pour it over the grain, then stir and cover as for cold soaking. Salt is sometimes used when soaking to reduce possible enzymatic activity that can lead to off-flavor to the soaked grain. The easiest way is to soak the grain immediately after kneading the dough. Both of these semi-finished products can be left at room temperature until the final batch.

[Dough kneading]

Dough kneading
All ingredients are placed in a kneading bowl. There are some exceptions: for example, when ingredients such as raisins or nuts are included in the recipe, they are added at the end of the batch. Another exception is dough kneading using autolysis technology. In this case, salt and ripe dough, if used, are not added at the beginning of the batch. When using a spiral kneader, kneading at first speed takes about three minutes to fully mix all ingredients Check the dough hydration and make adjustments if necessary by adding a small amount of water or flour. The recipes are balanced, but minor adjustments may be required. For example, in very wet weather, it is good practice to slightly reduce the amount of water for the dough to compensate for the additional moisture in the flour. It is better not to add flour without special need, as this will change the total proportion of salt in the recipe. It is also recommended to check the taste of the salt dough at this time - if it was accidentally missed. After making sure that the dough is the right consistency, switch the mixer to the second speed and knead for about 3 minutes until a moderate gluten development is achieved. Full development of gluten in the kneading machine will mean excessive oxidation of carotenoids, which will lead to a loss of wheat flavor and aroma, as well as the creamy color characteristic of quality bread. In order to complete the process of forming the strength of the dough without losing color and aroma, it is more effective to knead the dough during fermentation, and not to knead until the gluten fully develops. There are a few exceptions requiring a different mixing time at second speed. The first of these is kneading the dough with soaked grain: it may take another 30 to 60 seconds of kneading, since in the presence of swollen grain, the dough develops a little more slowly. The second exception is the use of the autolysis method, which requires only one and a half to two minutes of mixing at the second speed. The dough also develops well during autolysis, despite the absence of mechanical stress, and a surprisingly short processing at second speed is required to complete the kneading. It is actually possible to break down the structure of a dough pretty quickly if it is re-mixed.

Since the water absorption capacity of flour can vary significantly depending on the season and the mill, and when using swollen grains, sometimes more, sometimes less water is lost due to evaporation, it is impossible to indicate the exact amount of water in the recipes. However, it should be noted that the weaker the dough, the generally better the fermentation, and the better the volume and taste. For the most part, the types of dough listed in this chapter do not have a very accurate percentage of hydration - you need to feel it. In each recipe, hydration percentage serves more as a starting point, hands and experience will be much better guidance.

[Dough fermentation]

Dough fermentation
Ripe pre-fermented semi-finished products increase the acidity of the finished dough, which helps the dough to ripen and make it stronger. The dough fermentation time can be shortened. Usually, one to two hours is enough for the dough to fully mature. If the percentage of dough increases, the fermentation time of the dough can be reduced accordingly. Some types of dough, such as ciabatta, require long fermentation, and a 3-hour fermentation is required to reach their full potential.
Swabbing is a fundamental requirement, and there are subtleties to this operation.

[Dividing and forming]

Dividing and forming
The dough for products such as baguettes, as a rule, is divided into pieces weighing 300 - 450 g, while other types of bread can weigh more than a kilogram. After dividing, all dough pieces are rounded and left seam up to lay on the floured surface, covered with a film to prevent the surface from winding.Depending on the intensity of the rounding treatment and the characteristics of the particular dough, aging may take 10 to 30 minutes before final shaping. Basically, the bread described in this chapter is made round or oval (except for baguettes or ciabatta), tin bread and rolls can also be made. The formed blanks are subjected to final proofing in floured baskets (bannetons) or between the folds of the baking cloth (or in molds, depending on the type of product). Cover the pieces on the fabric with plastic foil during the final proofing to prevent winding of the surface. In production conditions, the final proofing process is carried out in special proofing cabinets with controlled humidity and temperature. When making buns, they are proofed on sheets sprinkled with coarse cornmeal or semolina, and then baked on sheets or directly on the stone hearth of the oven.

[Final proofing]

Final proofing
As a rule, bread made with a pre-fermented semi-finished product needs from one to one and a half hours of final proofing at a temperature of 24-28 ° C. The dough pieces should expand significantly and become lightweight. They are loaded into the kiln after reaching about 90% of the total volume increase so that they can "rise in the kiln" by rapid heating.

[Steam humidification and baking]

Steam humidification and baking
The spaced dough pieces are transferred to the loading conveyor or baking shovel, placing them seam down. Breads, such as baguettes or loaves, which are cut like baguettes (that is, by very thin undercutting the surface of the dough), must be cut with a curved razor that is held at an angle of about 30 ° to the surface of the piece. Round and oval items that are cut in a different way should be cut with a straight-blade razor held vertically. The oven is moistened with steam before loading and then again after loading the bread. Steam supply for 4-6 s is sufficient. For most types of bread, a temperature of about 235 ° C is suitable, with variations for individual recipes. Once the crust is the color you want, open the oven slide and finish baking in a dry atmosphere (this helps to create a thin, crispy crust). In a home stove, you can slightly open the oven door by inserting a metal spoon. Baking times for individual recipes are for round products weighing 600 g, unless otherwise indicated. Full baked goods ensure the bread is full of flavor and aroma.

[Eating]

Eating
As with all well-made breads, the following types of bread should be completely refrigerated before being consumed. Since they are made with dough, they tend to keep fairly well - maybe not as well as sourdough bread, but better than over-speed bread. After cutting the slices, hold the sliced ​​side down on a wooden cutting board. If you intend to store the bread for several days, wrap the loaf tightly in a paper bag for better storage, then put it in a plastic bag. Leave it partially open, then a little air circulation will keep the crust crisp and the film will help prevent the bread from drying out.

The book contains recipes and cooking methods:

Baguette on dough pulish
Ripe dough baguette
Ciabatta on a strong dough biga
Ciabatta on dough pulish
Rustic bread on pulish
Rustic bread on dough
Rustic bread with whole grain flour on dough
Whole wheat bread on ripe dough
Whole wheat bread with cereals on ripe dough
Durum wheat bread (durum) with whole grains in liquid dough
Cornbread on pulish

If there is a need for any recipe, write - I will scan this topic.

Wow! How detailed everything is! Thank you!

[Admin]

Admin, Tanyusha, Marivanna-Olya sent me here.What material! And most importantly, the very essence of the matter is chosen! Thank you Romochka!

[Admin]

Admin, Tanyusha, Marivanna-Olya sent me here. What material! And most importantly, the very essence of the matter is chosen! Thank you Romochka!

Ilona, you hit! From you bread I read Old, absorbed - now bakes and post on the forum

Tanya, I love you! I will report right in this thread! That is to say, a visual aid!

Zhdemsssss!

Tan, something not very visual aid turned out. The flour let me down. The dough literally floated. I somehow put it into shape. Well, here's the result.





But in general I'm happy. The dough on the big was completely different, but the smell ...
In general, I will repeat.
Tatyan, if something is wrong, you can delete the message, I will not be offended (I did not dare to post pictures for 3 days). I'm like Ryaba chicken, I'll bring you even better!

[Ilona]

Ilona, the bread turned out good, airy

The dough turned out to be too soft, so it does not hold its shape, even in shape.
In such cases, you need to stand the dough until it increases in size by 2-2.5 times, and bake - otherwise the dough may float.
And you need to select a form for proofing in size so that the dough remains in the form during baking, then it will not come out, and you will not get such a "mushroom" on the finished bread.

We work further

Thank you Tanya, I'll take everything into account.
We are working!

Tanya, it's me again! Take the report!





How glad I am that I learned how to bake such bread with yours and Olyna (MariVanna)! You start to enjoy this bread even at the stage of preparation, when you open a jar with a big. How she smells! What is its structure, completely different from that of a simple dough, which, when kneaded, seems to whisper under the hands. It is not possible to knead Bigu, she is a single whole (thanks to autolysis). I knead the dough with my hands, slowly, it's another pleasure. There is no need to talk about the aromas in the apartment when bread is baked, everyone knows this! And when you take out the finished bread from the oven and carry it to the table, and it pours you a fragrant heat, this is another pleasure, satisfaction from a job well done, and from the fact that at this moment everyone who is at home pulls up to the kitchen. And if you wait a little, you can hear what Richard Bertinet calls the song of bread!
In general, I am delighted! The bread is delicious, real! Thank you Tanechka for your work, for all your attempts to convey to us all the subtleties in a difficult matter like baking.

[Ilona]

Ilona, the bread is gorgeous! And what kind of x / oven is there when such bread has a completely different spirit
Pekies for health!

when such bread has a completely different spirit

Completely different! Just heaven and earth. But in order to understand this I JUST NEEDED to buy an x ​​\ stove! Of course, she is also my assistant, but I even loved to knead the dough with my hands, at least I learned to feel it.

Here! This is the key phrase "learned to feel the dough" !!! Now everything will definitely work out!

I subscribe to this Temko I will study it later, but now there is no time But I like bread on old dough

Tanyush!

Should pulish or biga smell alcohol? I made bread on dough - the smell of alcohol was present, but not so vigorous, pleasant. But the bread tasted unpleasant, pronounced alcoholic.
Is that how it should be? And you just have to get used to it? And what gives bread a dough? I didn't find much difference.

[Admin]

I read it in one breath, interesting and informative
Admin, Thank you

Tanya, what to change, tell me, please:
I knead the dough (in HP), separate a piece, put it in a container, cover it with a foil and put it in the freezer.
The next time you bake bread: I take out the container with the dough from the freezer, put it in the refrigerator compartment. When the dough is thawed, I transfer it to the table to keep warm. Then I add the old dough to the HP bucket, which already contains other ingredients.

Silence ... I'll ask in another topic